Experience report
Under the influence of water
From the alpine village of Gadmen to the highest pass in the Haslital, the Susten Pass: this is the last stage of the Via Berna. At the beginning, the trail leads through the village before we come to the Gadmerwasser - the stream that will accompany us on the hike for a while. The start is very leisurely. We hike flat at first - through forests, along corridor roads and pastures. After the first few hundred metres and a first climb, the field road becomes a hiking trail. The route is very varied. Again and again we stop, look around and marvel at the mountain world, which often seems as if we are the only people who have discovered this piece of earth for ourselves. Everywhere we see primeval forests, flower meadows and waterfalls. After crossing a pasture, we now climb more steeply and find ourselves in an idyllic flatter transverse valley. Since we have already left a few water mouths behind us, the Gadmerwasser is now less rugged than at the beginning, actually just a gentle little stream. Alpine farming is omnipresent, we have already been greeted by cows, sheep and now also goats.
After that, the path climbs a little steeper again. We are fascinated by the many walls that have been carefully and sturdily part of the path for decades. The path we hike today for pleasure used to be an important trade route on which the muleteers hauled their goods over the pass. The walls are the only remaining witnesses. Shortly after passing a sign indicating a nature reserve, the valley opens up again and a beautiful, unique moorland landscape lies before us. It is nestled next to the pass road, of which we hardly notice anything. We hike up to the Stein glacier. Here we find an alpine shop and a hotel with a restaurant, where we fortify ourselves with a fine and nutritious meal. After the break, we hike the last 300 metres in altitude. On a hiking trail that zigzags up to the pass below the pass road. Always in sight is the Steinsee with the imposing Stein glacier. After about an hour we have made it to the top. Hikers, motorcyclists and cyclists alike take pictures of the sign "Susten Pass 2224 m a.s.l.".
Over a warming cup of tea in the restaurant we review the route and realise that the hike was clearly marked by water. First the wild Gadmerwasser, then some waterfalls roaring down the rugged mountain flanks, then the Gadmerwasser, which has meanwhile become a quiet little stream, the mystical moorland and finally the lake and the glacier. We take the PostBus back to the valley. The bus driver tells us some anecdotes about the construction of the pass road, we listen tiredly but with interest. And so an exciting day draws to a close. We take home many beautiful impressions of the wild Gadmen valley after this very varied hike.
On the way for you: Monika Neiger, Tanja Reusser
